France 2014: Montmartre

Montmartre is on the northern edges of the city, visible from most of flat Paris due to its hill topped by the white domes of Sacre Coeur. The city wall used to end where Montmartre started but was annexed to Paris about 150 years ago. This part of Paris was historically a working class area and attracted many artists and writers given its rural charm and low rents.

We took a walking tour, and met our guide and the rest of the group at the metro stop across from the Moulin Rouge. Montmartre at one time was filled with mills that supplied Paris with flour - hence the windmills.

The advantage of going with a guide is learning about things that we would probably walk right by. This was a very small tribute to Louise Michael, a leader of the Paris Commune in the 1870's when workers overthrew the government for a short time. The resulting battle was essentially a civil war resulting in mass executions, exiles and much destruction.

Picasso and other artists lived here, and the state continues to subsidize artists in this building. Evidently competition is very tough to get in to the 3 year residencies. The name means "the laundry boat", so named for the laundry that used to hang from its windows.

This is a sculpture based on Marcel Ayme's story "Le Passé Muraille" (the walked through walls). The author lived in the building where the sculpture is located, and visitors are encouraged to touch his hand to protect us from getting stuck while walking through walls. So far it has worked and Mary has not yet been stuck halfway through any walls.

The photo below captures some of the village charm still present away from the heavily touristed areas.

Paris actually has a vineyard, and the wine produced is high priced and not very good according to our guide. But all the money raised is used to fund social programs in the district so people buy it but don't often drink it.

The building of Sacre Coeur was begun in 1876, as both a way for the government to exert control over an area known as a home to revolutionaries and to atone for the mass executions that occurred during the chaotic days of the Paris Commune. It was controversial given that the battle between the two camps raged on - Catholic vs secular, royalists vs republicans - and Sacre Coeur was not consecrated until 1919, even then standing in contrast to the bohemian lifestyle that surrounded it.

We visited Montmartre during the grape harvest festival so there were lots of vendors and other activities. We bought some great caramel nuts from this vendor who was making them on the street - quite tasty.

Took this picture from the Musee de Montmartre which overlooks the vineyard. Obviously part of the festivities involved folks in purple dress - we assumed they had something to do with wine.

Sacre Coeur is imposing, whether you see it from afar or stand right in front of it. None of these pictures really capture the people scene outside on the steps leading up to the church - lots of folks hanging out enjoying the view of Paris spread out below.